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Monday, February 24, 2014

The soon to be Tagalog Tigers? -an illustrated essay.

       Some years ago, my work obligations required me to make frequent visits to the Philippines (between 20 and 30 times). This gave me the opportunity consider the strange social make-up of the country and to a certain extent review its governmental structure. For the most part (-with the notable exception of Mannie Pacquaio!), Filipinos tend to be placid, peaceful people. However, due to their history of corrupt administrations plus an apparently never-ending series of meteorological and tectonic disasters, not surprisingly they tend to appear reluctantly resigned to their long-suffering existence. 
However they are remarkably resourceful. In addition to their native Tagalog, most are competent if not fluent in English. There seems to be nothing that they are incapable of fabricating  -at a cost about 10% of the industries of the developed world. If I were asked to define the Philippines, I would describe it as a potentially first-world country governed by a third-world administration. 
For my first few visits I stayed at the Peninsula Manila Hotel in Makati, the business centre, conveniently situated close to many of my business activities. However the appalling pollution from extreme traffic congestion, eventually led me to seek refuge in the luxury Westin Plaza Hotel (now the Sofitel) set adjacent to the seafront and the CCP (Cultural Complex of the Philippines), the latter being a large recreation area somewhat compromised by several ugly concrete edifices intended to constitute the "cultural" component. 


The Ayala Triangle in the centre of Makati. The building in the bottom right hand corner is the Peninsula Manila Hotel.  Ayala Ave. to the left leads to the section shown in the image below.

                                 Central business district, Ayala Ave. As modern as any city centre.


A jeepny; essentially a public minibus decked out with typical Philippine "bling"

Full Circle - Manila, Philippines
Sometimes it's arguably quicker to crawl on hands and knees than to take a taxi or jeepny! 


Part of the CCP (Cultural Centre of the Philippines). In front, one of the concrete cultural edifices. In the distance the two buildings at the end of the road on the left is the Sofitel Plaza. The thoroughfare at bottom right is Roxas Boulevard which follows the shoreline .

A taxi ride for the fairly short distance between Makati and the CCP is unremarkable, passing many shabby small shops many of which would benefit from a lick of paint. Happily, in most cases, large numbers of people, together with the omnipresent traffic congestion indicates that business is brisk. 
However, It does not take long to become aware of the numerous huge slum areas around the city. There is no obvious attempt to confine them to certain districts and some lie adjacent to affluent developments. During the time of my visits, one example, a mere 5 minute walk from the Westin Plaza seemed to be virtually integrated with their less poverty stricken neighbors. I was to discover that this, although by any definition a slum, the level of poverty here was a little less abject than others that I subsequently discovered.


Some slums lie cheek by jowl with more affluent surroundings including modern apartment blocks.


                                   Part of abysmal Tondo, featured in Anita Rani's documentary.


Good health is more likely if the local clinic is avoided like the plague!

By any standard, all were a disgrace and a prime example of the smug indifference and seemingly complacent attitude of the administration. Indeed the malodorous, appallingly overcrowded conditions in which countless thousands live their lives and raise families are the worst I have ever seen. Some streets even have filthy streams full of all manner of disgusting effluent running through them. The only other comparable situation that I have seen exists in the Cape Flats district of Cape Town in South Africa. Even here, whilst accommodation is dismal by any standards, the sprawl of shanties is essentially single-storey, the population is less dense and does not to my knowledge have streams of sewage to contend with -and the outside air is far cleaner.

For Comparison - in Cape Flats, a distressingly similar scenario exists although due to the single storeys the population density is less. Also  the traffic is sparse and the air fit to breathe.

In the Philippines, the social problems are exacerbated be the stultifying affect of the Roman Catholic church which extends its smothering blanket over the majority. Despite the existing over-populated misery of the inhabitants, its strict policy on birth control borders on insanity. Although I still find it difficult to believe, I was told by at least one local Catholic that for particularly devout married couples, in addition to rejecting natural precautions or man-made methods, even abstinence is unacceptable. Regular sexual activity is God's wish, as are the subsequent pregnancies and births. The new additions to the families barely at or below subsistence level need not concern them as God will provide! 
Ever resourceful, large numbers of women successfully seek employment in a variety of domestic situations in Hong Kong and other East Asia locations and regrettably as "women of the night" especially in Manila. Men offer their services in sweat equity particularly in the Middle East oil producing nations. Without these substantial contributions to their family coffers, it is difficult to see how they could prevail.    
During one of my visits, a business associate introduced me to the ex. Roman Catholic Archbishop of Manila, Jaime Sin. His efforts over the years being noted by the Vatican, had resulted in a promotion. From thenceforth until his death in 2005 his official and outrageously improbable title was Cardinal Sin!   
My interest in all this was reawakened by an excellent BBC video on YouTube;     

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiyMPeJUFlM#t=19

In it the presenter Anita Rani, does a remarkable job in exploring the Philippine social structure and in particular investigates the differences between the various classes. She spends a considerable time among the lower echelons and displays an extraordinary ability to connect with them -even to the extent of being present in the maternity facilities at the actual birth of babies. She possesses a remarkable degree of genuine compassion, something not always a feature of such documentaries. To investigate something of the poverty-stricken shanty dwellers she concentrates on the huge Tondo district of Manila which typically is situated close to more affluent locales.
Among the more recent additions to the middle class, a curious feature of the Filipinos is revealed. This is something I which repeatedly noticed on my visits. Presumably due to their customary primitive and thread bare lifestyles, material desires are very superficial. Consequently they tend to idolize anything or anyone connected with the celebrity cultures of music, movies, or fashion. Anything considered "cool" and to possess glamour or "bling" is devoutly to be wished for. As a result there is a huge industry of locally produced signature "knock-offs". As the owner of the ostentatious clinic visited in the video affirms,"Filipinos love to show off". The extravagance is bizarre! Here we see an 18 year old girl who clearly possesses some disposable income, instead of sensibly investing, is having her armpits "lazered and whitened". This example of rampant western style consumerism is typical of those who have recently managed to escape the ravages of poverty. An example of the disconnect with reality was evident during one of my many taxi rides around the city. When I asked my driver as to his future aspirations, I was informed that he intended to become a taxi  driver in New York. When I inquired on whether he was concerned on the consequences of making such a major move, I was solemnly advised that he knew all about it as he had seen the Robert de Niro movie,"Taxi Driver"!   
The extraordinary superficiality even extends to Imelda Marcos who with her gold-addicted husband Ferdinand royally ripped off the nation. Despite this track record, she is still regarded as something of a Fairy Queen or Hollywood star with a fan base to match. Even more astonishing, despite still having a multitude of outstanding charges against her, she has returned to politics and ran provincially for the second district of Ilocos Norte in the 2010 elections. Amazingly she won 80% of the vote! At the most recent election in 2013, this majority rose to 90%!  At 84 years of age her contribution at best would be minimal. In  her case it seems to be close to zero.*


       Even religious ceremonies with their extravagant displays seem to regard Jesus more as a rock star than a deity.


File:Cardinal Jaime Sin in 1988.jpg
What can you expect from someone named Cardinal Sin!

Happily at long last, things seem to be changing for the better. To their credit, a rising number of the young residents of the slums, albeit in difficult circumstances are making great efforts to educate themselves. Consequently many are now finding employment opportunities resulting from the exponential increase in businesses activities situated in the burgeoning number of high rise buildings, particularly in the business district of Makati. So many new skyscrapers have appeared since my visits that whole areas previously well known to me are now difficult to recognize.These have been placed there to capitalize on the vast, largely untapped potential labour market, coupled with the substantial cost advantages in the Philippines. If this trend continues -as seems likely, the employment potential is astronomic for those with the necessary qualifications. Already the Philippines has overtaken India as the call-centre capital of the world, employing nearly half a million and are recruiting for many more. The consequential improvement in income will totally transform the lifestyles of the shanty dwellers.
Anita interviews the CEO of Citybank who is in no doubt that the economic fortunes of the archipelago will sky-rocket in the years ahead and with it the expansion of the middle class. He makes the  extremely optimistic forecast that by 2050 the country will be situated among the top fifteen biggest economies in the world. This will then put the Philippines in the same league of other oriental "tigers" such as Hong Kong, Singapore, Japan, S. Korea, Taiwan and of course the giant tiger, China.



However, it doesn't end here with office-bound desk jobs. I was very fortunate to contact an organisation with the unlikely name of "Ten Knots Tours" a Joint Philippine/Japanese enterprise which operates a resort at a place called El Nido off the coast of Palawan. The latter is a cigar shaped island situated on the west of the southern end of the Philippine archipelago. The to reach the resort a small aircraft connects Manila to the landing strip at El Nido. From here it is necessary to board a locally built outrigger boat for the 45 minute trip to a small inlet in the island of Miniloc where the resort is situated. It is totally self-sufficient apart for staples which are flown in on the aircraft. I was asked to carry out a fact finding mission to assess the airport runway's suitability for larger 36 seat aircraft. The entire place is the epitome of a tropical island paradise. Most of the accommodation takes the form of thatched cottages, some mounted on stilts above the clear blue water. There are no roads and the total occupancy is restricted to 54 persons. Scuba diving is exceptional as is snorkeling for the less adventurous. Fruit and freshly caught fish form part of an excellent cuisine. It is a truly magical place, so much so that some time later I took my long suffering wife Margaret there for a holiday. This is but one of a whole host of small islands, many of which could be made suitable for tourist purposes. As El Nido and the surrounding islands form part of an environmentally sensitive region, almost totally administered by the conservation-focused Ten Knots company, the form and content of any further tourist development will be closely monitored. However, this is but one small part of what constitutes massive potential for the future. Provided that the necessary environment safeguards are enforced, the opportunities seem virtually limitless. 




The resort is situated in a small secluded inlet


The water is amazingly clear.